I grew up surfing. By the age of 8 I was a permanent fixture at the local break. The annoying punk-grommet who was alway there. Through my teens and adult life, surfing was either accessible and I did a lot of it. Or long periods of time would go by and I would not get to do any of it, either because I lived far from the ocean or my business was all-consuming.
It seemed appropriate to kick off these videos with something about surfing. For me in my formative years, it was my gateway to the Flow state. There is something about surfing for me that defies analysis. Probably because it taught me so much about life. From risk taking to respect for the ocean. It taught me a lot about people too as the social dynamics in the surf scene is pretty interesting, and it is always changing. I think your assumptions are up for question constantly when surfing. Since element of water is always changing you really had to keep reading the situation you found yourself in. If you assumed or presumed… it usually ended in wipeout and being held under for longer than what was comfortable, in really cold water.
So, fast forward some decades and I find myself in Colorado. Living here is great, but it is very far from the ocean. When I heard about the river surfers, I had to find out more.